Argentina is the fifth largest wine producing country in the world, and the Mendoza province is responsible for 70 percent of that production. Not surprisingly, the roughly 1,200 vineyards in the province are a major reason 700,000 tourists flock to Mendoza annually.
The city’s location near the Andes Mountains makes Mendoza one of the top adventure tourist draws in the country. The city center is laden with adventure tourism outfits catering to the more adventurous.
My friend and I went to Mendoza for another reason, though. Our ninety-day tourist visas for Chile were about to expire. Mendoza’s most alluring characteristic for us was its status as a non-Chilean city (although it was part of Chile until 1776), which allowed us to renew our Chilean visas for another ninety days.
Wine should always be the first priority. So, on our first day, we took a four-hour vineyard excursion. The agenda included tours and tastings at two vineyards, as well as a quick visit to the Iglesia de la Carrodilla to pay homage to the patron saint of vineyards.
An eager front-desk employee at our hotel somehow sold us on a full-day trip to visit the Termales on day two of the long weekend trip. We reluctantly agreed, assuming that we’d visit a hot spring and then hike around the mountains for a while. The Termales were nothing more than a series of swimming pools and hot tubs in a large water park. The water was piped into the park from the hot springs, which we never saw.
The view from the Termales was, however, rather stunning. The park is nestled into the mountains, overlooking a river. If it weren’t for the near freezing air temperatures, we might have been able to enjoy the surrounding area much more. As it was, we sat in the crowded pools most of the day, occasionally ducking our heads underwater to avoid frostbite, and bemoaned our poor decision.
Eager to get away from tourist laden van trips on our final day in Mendoza, we rented bikes and spent the day cycling about at the Parque de San Martin. Despite a poor map and the incredible lack of signage in the enormous, well-kept park, we managed to weave our way to the zoo, which encompasses Cerro de la Gloria, a splendid hill emerging from the park grounds.
The zoo grounds were filled with indigenous vegetation and offered several wonderful vantage points to look out over the city of Mendoza. Some of the cages in which the larger animals were kept were startlingly small, although I don’t think that was the problem with the pack of monkeys we watched escape rather easily from their cage and begin to wonder freely about the zoo grounds.
Tips for the Traveler
For those considering driving in Mendoza, don’t, unless you’re a card-carrying sadist. It is reasonable to assume that Argentina has traffic laws, but they weren’t readily apparent in Mendoza.
Air conditioning in hotel rooms is controlled by the front desk. You have to request the AC to be turned on and off for you; except at 7:00 a.m. each morning, when it is automatically turned off. Let the front desk know if you want them to turn it back on.
If you’re traveling by bus from Santiago to Mendoza, or vice-versa (and you should, the journey is one incredible view after another), bring warm clothes regardless of the season. At the border, you will be unloaded from the bus into an unheated shed in the heart of the Andes. The time-consuming process of exiting one country and entering the other could leave you subject to frigid temperatures for a long period of time.
Unless completely bereft of dining options, don’t eat on the touristy Paseo Sarmiento. The food is substandard. However, the people-watching is magnificent. Haver dinner elsewhere, then go the Paseo Sarmiento, grab a liter of beer or a bottle of wine, and enjoy the view.
